2. Nobody owns a map. No stores sell maps. But if you ask for directions, ten people drop what they're doing and argue over the route you ought to take.
3. You drive as fast as you can, and stay timidly in the righthand lane, but still get passed at frightening speed by every imagineable vehicle. Believing it's another testosterone-adled, espresso-fueled Strada warrior, you turn to discover it's a white-haired septegenarian in a 1978 Fiat Panda.
Another country, another lesson for the kids about European stereotypes. Great training for the next World Cup.